Akris : Runway - Paris Fashion Week - Womenswear Spring Summer 2020
Akris’ Albert Kreimler is the master of unifying art and fashion. When other brands appear to seek out partnerships for Instagrammable gimmicks or quick cultural validity, the designer imbues his art- or architecture-inspired collections with integrity and passion. His recent collaborative roster has included Geta Bratescu and Alexander Girard. For S/S 2020, the artist was taken with the work of 1903-born Italian painter Antonio Calderara, whose figurative work moved into experimentations of colour and form in the mid-1950s, focusing on lines and squares, and incorporating the mist of Lake Orta in Vacciago, where he lived from the mid-1930s. This meant an opalising colour palette of white and black, suffused with glittering golds and silvers, embodied in molten tailoring, fluid dresses, relaxed suiting and gowns embellished with graphic mosaic, in sequin silk, lurex jersey and pearlised suede.